Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
